Saturday, June 29, 2013

Southeast in the...Midwest?

There's nothing about this post that has to do with The South or The Pacific Northwest. All references are purely tangential. If you're a purist, stop reading now. I will make every effort to point out the connections, however weak. Still, consider yourself warned.

This blog post is about Nebraska. Lincoln, Nebraska. We're going to meet in the middle.

This Southern gal met two lovely Nebraskinians (Is there a correct word?) in the Pacific Northwest. They decided to wed in the town in which they met. Interestingly, Lincoln was named for our 13th president in hopes of blocking a measure to make the town the state capitol. Most residents were Confederate leaning, and the movers and shakers of the time thought that naming the town after the recently assassinated president would keep the measure from passing. So. Didn't. Work—and look at all these connections I'm making!

I recently was accused of being "A Fly Over." In other words, I was a person who knew nothing about
That's some kind of flat. Silo skyscrapers
all those states flown over when going from coast to coast. It's true. I am. But I also love to explore new places with good people. I love my friends, and I'm going to love where they come from. I mean, I like corn. I like College Football. Go Huskers! Go Big Red! In fact, this past bowl season, The Huskers and Bulldogs commiserated on our mutual losses. We rooted for each other and we cried together. (Until we play each other. Then there will be blood.) That's pretty Southern. Something that the PNW doesn't really get.

Yes, a tractor greeted us at the airport. But I did not see one single cornfield during my stay. True story.  I'm a little disappointed to be honest. The airport was small and everyone was very friendly and polite—no hipsters in sight. Either in attitude or style. I rather like the eclectic style of the PNW, and I'm not sure what it was in Lincoln. It lacked some of the preppiness of the South. I think we determined it was more Abercrombie & Fitch or American Eagle. No Urban Outfitters or American Apparel.

I always do a little research before visiting a new location. Wikipedia was quite helpful, and I learned about the Lincoln naming business there as well as the fame of the state capitol, which is the second tallest in the country behind Louisiana. That would be on my list of things to do over the course of the weekend.

I had no idea how awesome it would be. "The Prick of the Prairie" is a marvel to see. The attention to detail, the art deco style, and the sheer "Americanness" of this structure astounded me. I took a gazillion pictures. I could have taken many more. Built over the course of the Roaring Twenties and completed during The Great Depression, this building has similar qualities to the Chrysler and Empire State Building, but specific to Southernness, it reminded me of some buildings in Asheville, NC.





Corn on the Knockers






Venetian American


Corn on the Ceiling



Sewing his wild kernels?
In general, I was really impressed by Lincoln's fantastic architecture. There was so much attention to detail in many of the buildings. Climbing up to the top of the capitol building, I saw the flat line of the horizon in every direction. I'm curious if Lincoln's urban planners and designers were more careful with their decisions because they were disrupting that unequivocal flatness. Just a thought.

While I didn't stray from the grid-like pattern of Lincoln's streets, I did get to visit Pioneer's Park a little west of the city. It was a gorgeous day, and lots of school kids were out exploring the park and anticipating summer and the last few days of school. North, south, east or west—we all love the carefree days of summer. 

I love living in the Pacific Northwest, but two things about the south I mess dreadfully: lightning bugs and thunderstorms. Lincoln provided me with the latter. From Thursday until Saturday night, the Portland folks basked in sunshine and prairie balmy breezes. Mother nature waited until after the wedding and dancing were done, but she gave us a show. I love the anticipation of a summer thunderstorm. You can feel the electricity in the air. I wonder how many times the Seed Sower gets struck by lightning? 

Here are just a few more photographs. Thanks Lincoln! Congrats Scott & Sara! 
What southerner doesn't like a little Bourbon?

From a distance

Traditional and Modern church architecture

Art Deco lines


Husker Art Museum

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Oxford, Part II: "Faulkner Country"



A Just and Holy Cause?
Traveling to Oxford, Mississippi, with a handful of non-Southerners, I ruminated on the South's relationship with time and place. Upon entering the Square from the Memphis airport, one of my friends said, "Man, stuff happened here." And yet we know stuff happens everywhere. What's the difference?

I grew up stopping at almost every historical road sign on byways of the south. I weaned myself off of it a bit while living in Europe, because you'd never get where you were going because you'd always be reading about what happened before. But even the monuments in the south are monuments themselves. Take this obelisk dedicated to Confederate Soldiers, erected in the early 20th century.

I just read a book review in the Wall Street Journal by Barton Swain about Tracy Thompson's "The Mind of the New South," and several of the passages stuck with me. One particular section discussed Southerner's obsession with the past as well as the fatigue of, as the author of the article writes,
the sanctimonious browbeating and ridicule constantly issuing from the entertainment industry, academia and the national news media? Most Southerners are prepared to live with the incessant reminders that their history and culture were corrupt from the beginning. What they aren't prepared to do is go looking for more such reminders.
Oxford Cemetery
The Garden & Gun article mentioned in an earlier post about Oxford muses that Faulkner would be turning in his grave if he saw the state of his beloved "postage stamp of native soil." Part of the change has to do with tearing down the old and putting up the new. Certainly most American cities could take a page from Portland's city planning, but should we drape all our pasts behind ropes and monuments?

Perhaps it's due to my Southernness, perhaps I can contribute it to my English major nature, but I was the only visitor to make a Faulkner Haj. Other than watching a beloved friend get married, this was the top of my list of things to do in Oxford. Using a little pamphlet included in the wedding baskets, I went on a run through the square, past Faulkner's grandparents' house (the Falkners, the author added the "U" after returning from a stint in the Canadian military. Make of that what you will) and on down to Rowan Oak, the home of William Faulkner for over thirty years.


British and American Oxford notes
In his 1936 book Absalom! Absalom! Faulkner wrote, "Maybe nothing ever happens once and is finished. Maybe happen is never once but like ripples  maybe on water after the pebble sings, the ripples moving on, spreading, the pool attached by a narrow umbilical water-cord to the next pool..."

This quote has stuck with me ever since I took an American Literature class with professor Jim Hans at Wake Forest University. I definitely think that Faulkner's writing would have remained obscure to me without his guidance through some of the more difficult passages. Granted, those are few of the shortest sentences Faulkner ever wrote, but still. Even in 2013, we're weighed down by history. It's almost paralyzing if we let it.

What I never needed help appreciating, was Faulkner's ability to describe what it felt like to be in the South. While I was in Oxford, I was reading Light in August, and I began to underline passages that struck me. Here are a few:

Beyond the open window the sound of insects has not ceased, not faltered.
...feeling the intermittent sun, the heat, smelling the savage and fecund odor of the earth, the woods, the loud silence.
He remembers it now, sitting in the dark window in the quiet study, waiting for twilight to cease, for night and the galloping hooves. The copper light has completely gone now; the world hangs in a green suspension in color and texture like light through colored glass.
Rowan Oak

  As if I'm accustomed to hearing galloping hooves.

Cedar lined driveway
So, I went solo to Rowan Oak, the actual physical place where Faulkner wrote those words. I walked through his gardens, tip toed around his back patio and peered through his kitchen window. I failed to bring $5, so I was not able to enter those hallowed halls. I was pained with nostalgia, watching students and professors read from books around the house. I wanted to eavesdrop and crash the course.

Faulkner walked here
Faulkner ate here





So the next day, before the wedding, I took a little trip to Square Books to peruse the Faulkner section. There must be one, right? Now I had heard quite a bit about this bookstore. It's the Powell's books of the south. First I walked into a small book store, and it was only children's books. Then I walked clockwise around the square until I found another square books. Ahh, this must be it. I ambled up and down the rows, but it still felt amiss. While there was a little homage to Garden & Gun magazine, I found no Faulkner section and not even a fiction section. I was confused. I asked for directions.

Clearly I wasn't from around here, because the lovely lady explained I was in the home and style section of the store. If I would just exit the front door and walk three doors down, I would find the main store and an ample Faulkner section. Just like my first trip down Hawthorne Boulevard in Portland, when I went into the wrong Powell's. The lady in Oxford was a little less condescending.

Faulkner Mecca
Boy, oh, boy did I find the gold mine. The holy grail. The pirate's booty of a true American literature devotee. A just and holy cause. After perusing several titles, I opted for a book entitled Faulkner and Love: The Women Who Shaped His Art. I'm barely half way through, but it's a good read for a historian and literary buff. I know that my old Professor would be scoffing at all the historical/revisionist/political bent to Faulkner's work, and I'm scoffing along with him in some parts. The pictures, dates and family trees are the most interesting to me so far.

As it turns out, Faulkner's mother was Maud Butler and she has the same birthday as me: November 27. I couldn't help but feel connected to her. I may just have to name my future daughter Maud in honor of our connection. Of course I haven't read that chapter. I could be both embarrassed to be a Butler as well as a Sagittarian.

As the weekend culminated in the actual wedding that brought the Pacific Northwest to the Southeast, I was illuminated by the father of the bride that the ceremony would take place on Faulkner Ridge. Apparently he participated in hunting parties here. Perhaps nothing ever happens and is finished.

The view from Faulkner Ridge
Now I'm back in Portland, and I've taken up reading several other books, one notably by Eckhart Tolle, the author of The Power of Now. Here in Portland you can't drive too far without reading a bumper sticker that touts his phrase, "All you have is now." Of course Eckhart lives in British Columbia—the Pacific Northwest. Wouldn't it be interesting to get Faulkner and Tolle in a room?


Thursday, May 2, 2013

Oxford, Part I: Put Some South in Your Mouth!

The first weekend in April brought exciting fodder for the Southeast in the Pacific Northwest blog, so much so that I have difficulty in pruning down the events for a single blog post. 

One of my oldest friends, and co-Portland inhabitant married her Alabama-born fiancé in a pastoral setting outside of Oxford, Mississippi. The wedding congregants consisted of largely three groups: Portland family (with some overlapping Georgia folks), an Athens, Alabama family and an Atlanta, Georgia contingency. The mixture was fabulous, and an affirmation, in my mind, that certain elements of The South and The Pacific Northwest dovetail nicely together.

For me, the two main themes were Blues City Cafe's Motto, "Put Some South in Your Mouth!" and William Faulkner's line, "Nothing ever happens and is finished." So this first post will address the culinary delights we put in our mouth

Let me first make plain, that I have never been to Oxford. I associate it mainly with Faulkner's writing and a 2008 article from Garden and Gun magazine. It has been, for some time, a place I wanted to visit. To get to Oxford, the Portland contingency had to fly to Memphis and rent a car for the hour and half drive. Our Portland party consisted of two Georgia affiliated, two Nebraskans, and two Californians. We all shared a penchant for good food and drink and discovering a quality sense of place. 

Our first stop? Beale Street and some lunch. After finding our way from the airport, we were all struck by how wintry it looked. It seems Portland, way up in the Pacific Northwest was much further along the spring trek than the heart of dixie. Who knew? We were also struck by the bleakness of the city. Memphis has seen some hard times.



Ghost River Golden Ale
I was the only person who had been to Memphis, and while we consulted our iPhones and networks, we ended up going to Blues City Cafe (rather than BB King's Restaurant & Blues Club across the street; I had been there in 2002) based on the awesome sign that told us to put some South in our mouth. Done.

Portland Family in Memphis
The six of us shared some delicious ribs, coleslaw and baked beans. Two of us opted for a local brew called the Ghost River Golden Ale.  What do you know, they tout that great water makes great beer. Exactly what we say in PDX. They also say think global, drink local. I love these guys.

We threw back the last drops of golden nectar, gnawed on the remnants of cow bones and hopped in our rental mini-van. Oxford, onward! One thing we were warned about: Mississippi does not sell cold beer, and we should pick up some before crossing the border. Even to me, a native southerner, alcohol regulations are a mystery to me. Why? Why can't an American buy cold beer in MS? I mean, it's unAmerican. In any event, I thought there would be all kinds of crazy carnival signs proclaiming, "Buy Cold Beer Here!" as we approached the border. Like firework shops on the border between Georgia and South Carolina. Alas, I was wrong. We seriously thought we were going to get shot, mugged or worse in our search for cold beer.

Eventually we picked up a 12 pack of Budweiser and got the heck out of there. No Ghost River Ale to be found. Colt 45, yes. Craft brew, no.  Ok, Oxford, onward!

The Garden & Gun article I referred to early, states that, "The Square of Oxford is studded with good bars and restaurants like jewels in a crown, and you can have big fun and great meals without ever leaving it." Too true. We didn't stray far from our VRBO which was just a few blocks away from the crown.

We ate at four locations on the Square: Soulshine Pizza Factory, Proud Larry's, Boure`, and City Grocery. All had their credits and debits.

Soulshine Pizza Factory

Credits include excellent and competent service to a large and unwieldy party. A huge bonus for me was access to Magic Hat #9 on tap. Oh delicious beer that was my favorite at Charlotte's very own Philosopher's Stone Tavern. It's very difficult to find on tap on the west coast. Impossible really. We had wide array of foods, including a variety of nachos, pizzas and salads. Sorry Soulshine, if your salad comes from a bag that includes iceberg lettuce, dehydrated carrots and purple cabbage, I cannot condone you as a food place.

Proud Larry's

We were another large party of 8 or so, so we missed out on the delightful outdoor seating. It was sunny outside and the Portlanders were tucked away in a little corner. I had my doubts about the food, but it ended up being delicious. I had a roast beef po' boy and bites of lobster nachos. Unbelievable. Thumbs up. Service was a bit slow and I'm not sure there was vodka in my Bloody Mary. That's nothing to be proud of, Larry.

Boure`

That's pronounced Boo-Ray for those of you who don't know. It evoked an appropriate nickname for a certain To Kill a Mocking Bird character for me. To be fair, we were catered here with tapas style food and drink. All were to my liking. The porch and atmosphere of this spot were killer.

City Grocery

City Grocery
Now this spot has a reputation. Written up in Garden and Gun, extolled by my brother and on the "to eat list" of every Portlander visiting that weekend: I knew I had to go here. We made lunch reservations and examined the menu so we could eat and run. We had a wedding to get to. Pricy, yes, but aren't all haut cuisine spots? Kudos to the wine list and affordable pricing. I had a Sauvignon Blanc for $5.50. Eat that Portland. The Waldorf Salad, on the other hand, was 8 bucks and was the size of a fruit cup. I had the shrimp and grits, which were delicious as was the cornbread. But I paid for it. Looking around at others' selections, I was not impressed by the cost per portion ratio. I'm not even that big of an eater, but it was kind of ridiculous. So over all, I would recommend this spot, but I might also recommend having heavy appetizers before I go.

Chick-fil-A

So I didn't eat here this trip. I took a run to Faulkner's home, Rowan Oak (to be mentioned later). However, I was a bit envious to miss those delicious waffle fries, polynesian sauce and fried chicken laced with pickle juice. Boo hoo.

Woodson Ridge Farms - Chef Elizabeth Heiskell 

Woodson Ridge Kitchen
The wedding was amazing, beautiful and poignant. The setting, the father's toast, and the dinner created a lasting impression. I felt quite lucky to be immeshed in such a quintessential Mississippi moment. Shrimp, grits, fried green tomatoes and some delicious Brussel sprout salad. The addition of St. Innocent and Oregon Pinot Noir did help. A delightful blending of Pacific Northwest in the Southeast.





Oregon Pinot Noir on a Mississippi Farm















Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Winter in Portlandia

My Portland friend just shared this Portlandia skit on Portland in the Winter. Hilarious. It's a nice addition to my most recent post Weather or Not Here I am.  I guess it's not just southerners who take every available moment to find the sunshine in the winter.

I've actually been enjoying my drives to Forest Grove, because the sky is more expansive and I'm able to see patches of sunlight coming through the clouds.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

Weather or not here I am!

SC does have nice winter weather
This is the part of the year when my father likes to compare notes on the weather in Charleston and Portland. He does not let a Facebook comment or phone call to go by without smugly interjecting, "It's 70 degrees here!" or "I'm wearing shorts!" He's not so smug when it's 100% humidity and 98 degrees, swatting mosquitoes and squashing ginormous flying palmetto bugs when we're enjoying dry, delightful 77 here in Portland.

I can't really complain about the weather, since I elected to live here, partially based on the climate. Living in Chicago, Minnesota or New England would never have been an option for me. I always want to embrace the joy of a SNOW DAY! Where it's a gift to be played in, an unexpected holiday.

Just an hour away!
This year has really been lovely, and I'm not at all fussed by my father's commentary. From an INdian summer to a chilly, but relatively sunny winter (so far, knock on wood). On Friday, I drove an hour away to meet a friend in Welches and go cross country skiing on Mt. Hood. Thirty-six degrees and sunny in Portland changed to 31 and snowy as I was passing through Sandy. The roads were a bit too treacherous to make it all the way to the Thriftway, and I ended up pulling over into a closed down gas station. There I left the Beetle Bug and climbed into a Jeep Cherokee—and the very capable driving hands of a girl born and raised on Mt. Hood's slopes.

Before we knew it, we were gliding through a winter wonderland. We picked up a puppy, Elsa, and rescued her from a day in the kennel for a day of romping in the snow. Can't do that in Charleston! But like all good places, dogs make it more fun.

A winter wonderland
I still have Georgia Bones in me, and I don't really do the downhill skiing or snowboarding, but that doesn't mean I can't learn the culture of snow and mountains. Ah, chasing freshies. Yes, it had snowed the previous evening and morning, and a few clouds continued to shroud the mountain. We had lots of sunshine and some bluebird views. The conditions were perfect for our trail and the best I've ever experienced—crisp, fluffy snow. Now I understand what all the fuss is about when people talk about conditions. It really makes a difference, even for the less adrenaline fueled sport of cross country. I'm officially not a gaper, and while rarely seen on an XC trail, we  did see a few Woah-bro's in town. Thanks for teaching me the lingo, Shelby!

Snow shimmering in a bluebird sky
I have discovered that Portland has a large contingency of people who just like to complain about the weather. Yes, we do get dreary stretches in the winter, and I'm OK with that. It's acceptable to let out a little whine about 24 days of straight overcast, drizzle clouds. But this year, no longer working in a window-less building, I've really been able to experience the outdoors on a daily basis. About a week ago, we had a beautiful, blue-sky day. I remarked to the check out lady at the grocery store about the beautiful day, and she looked at me in surprise, and said, "It's just so windy." The same day someone said, "But it's so cold." In the summer people complain about how hot it is or how dry or how humid. I'm keenly interested to know if these weather complainers are native Portlanders or not. I may do a scientific survey to find out.

Can't complain about this! 
While it's not exactly a resolution, I intend to be more aware of my weather commentary. I will earnestly try to not complain about the weather. I shall endeavor to see the positives about even the very worst of days. One of my favorite parts of PNW climate compared to the south is the variety and range of my clothing options. Layers make dressing fun! Do you have any suggestions for counteracting the weather nags?