Showing posts with label Garden and Gun. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Garden and Gun. Show all posts

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Oxford, Part II: "Faulkner Country"



A Just and Holy Cause?
Traveling to Oxford, Mississippi, with a handful of non-Southerners, I ruminated on the South's relationship with time and place. Upon entering the Square from the Memphis airport, one of my friends said, "Man, stuff happened here." And yet we know stuff happens everywhere. What's the difference?

I grew up stopping at almost every historical road sign on byways of the south. I weaned myself off of it a bit while living in Europe, because you'd never get where you were going because you'd always be reading about what happened before. But even the monuments in the south are monuments themselves. Take this obelisk dedicated to Confederate Soldiers, erected in the early 20th century.

I just read a book review in the Wall Street Journal by Barton Swain about Tracy Thompson's "The Mind of the New South," and several of the passages stuck with me. One particular section discussed Southerner's obsession with the past as well as the fatigue of, as the author of the article writes,
the sanctimonious browbeating and ridicule constantly issuing from the entertainment industry, academia and the national news media? Most Southerners are prepared to live with the incessant reminders that their history and culture were corrupt from the beginning. What they aren't prepared to do is go looking for more such reminders.
Oxford Cemetery
The Garden & Gun article mentioned in an earlier post about Oxford muses that Faulkner would be turning in his grave if he saw the state of his beloved "postage stamp of native soil." Part of the change has to do with tearing down the old and putting up the new. Certainly most American cities could take a page from Portland's city planning, but should we drape all our pasts behind ropes and monuments?

Perhaps it's due to my Southernness, perhaps I can contribute it to my English major nature, but I was the only visitor to make a Faulkner Haj. Other than watching a beloved friend get married, this was the top of my list of things to do in Oxford. Using a little pamphlet included in the wedding baskets, I went on a run through the square, past Faulkner's grandparents' house (the Falkners, the author added the "U" after returning from a stint in the Canadian military. Make of that what you will) and on down to Rowan Oak, the home of William Faulkner for over thirty years.


British and American Oxford notes
In his 1936 book Absalom! Absalom! Faulkner wrote, "Maybe nothing ever happens once and is finished. Maybe happen is never once but like ripples  maybe on water after the pebble sings, the ripples moving on, spreading, the pool attached by a narrow umbilical water-cord to the next pool..."

This quote has stuck with me ever since I took an American Literature class with professor Jim Hans at Wake Forest University. I definitely think that Faulkner's writing would have remained obscure to me without his guidance through some of the more difficult passages. Granted, those are few of the shortest sentences Faulkner ever wrote, but still. Even in 2013, we're weighed down by history. It's almost paralyzing if we let it.

What I never needed help appreciating, was Faulkner's ability to describe what it felt like to be in the South. While I was in Oxford, I was reading Light in August, and I began to underline passages that struck me. Here are a few:

Beyond the open window the sound of insects has not ceased, not faltered.
...feeling the intermittent sun, the heat, smelling the savage and fecund odor of the earth, the woods, the loud silence.
He remembers it now, sitting in the dark window in the quiet study, waiting for twilight to cease, for night and the galloping hooves. The copper light has completely gone now; the world hangs in a green suspension in color and texture like light through colored glass.
Rowan Oak

  As if I'm accustomed to hearing galloping hooves.

Cedar lined driveway
So, I went solo to Rowan Oak, the actual physical place where Faulkner wrote those words. I walked through his gardens, tip toed around his back patio and peered through his kitchen window. I failed to bring $5, so I was not able to enter those hallowed halls. I was pained with nostalgia, watching students and professors read from books around the house. I wanted to eavesdrop and crash the course.

Faulkner walked here
Faulkner ate here





So the next day, before the wedding, I took a little trip to Square Books to peruse the Faulkner section. There must be one, right? Now I had heard quite a bit about this bookstore. It's the Powell's books of the south. First I walked into a small book store, and it was only children's books. Then I walked clockwise around the square until I found another square books. Ahh, this must be it. I ambled up and down the rows, but it still felt amiss. While there was a little homage to Garden & Gun magazine, I found no Faulkner section and not even a fiction section. I was confused. I asked for directions.

Clearly I wasn't from around here, because the lovely lady explained I was in the home and style section of the store. If I would just exit the front door and walk three doors down, I would find the main store and an ample Faulkner section. Just like my first trip down Hawthorne Boulevard in Portland, when I went into the wrong Powell's. The lady in Oxford was a little less condescending.

Faulkner Mecca
Boy, oh, boy did I find the gold mine. The holy grail. The pirate's booty of a true American literature devotee. A just and holy cause. After perusing several titles, I opted for a book entitled Faulkner and Love: The Women Who Shaped His Art. I'm barely half way through, but it's a good read for a historian and literary buff. I know that my old Professor would be scoffing at all the historical/revisionist/political bent to Faulkner's work, and I'm scoffing along with him in some parts. The pictures, dates and family trees are the most interesting to me so far.

As it turns out, Faulkner's mother was Maud Butler and she has the same birthday as me: November 27. I couldn't help but feel connected to her. I may just have to name my future daughter Maud in honor of our connection. Of course I haven't read that chapter. I could be both embarrassed to be a Butler as well as a Sagittarian.

As the weekend culminated in the actual wedding that brought the Pacific Northwest to the Southeast, I was illuminated by the father of the bride that the ceremony would take place on Faulkner Ridge. Apparently he participated in hunting parties here. Perhaps nothing ever happens and is finished.

The view from Faulkner Ridge
Now I'm back in Portland, and I've taken up reading several other books, one notably by Eckhart Tolle, the author of The Power of Now. Here in Portland you can't drive too far without reading a bumper sticker that touts his phrase, "All you have is now." Of course Eckhart lives in British Columbia—the Pacific Northwest. Wouldn't it be interesting to get Faulkner and Tolle in a room?


Thursday, October 11, 2012

Garden and Gun Meet Lewis and Clark

Shortly before I moved to the Pacific Northwest, I became acquainted with Garden & Gun magazine when I read its first issue from the Spring of 2007. Like many people, I scratched my head at the title but succumbed to the literary writing and compelling photos. When I relocated to Portland, Oregon, I took my subscription with me, which allowed me to stay connected to a much beloved South. Like James Joyce, sometimes you have to leave to get proper perspective on your home.

This past week, I received one missive each from my mother and father that happily married the best things about the South and the Pacific Northwest. Perfect for this blog.

The first was an article from Charleston's Post and Courier that reported on Garden & Gun's comeback from the brink of the recession and butchery that  many print institutions are taking. Back in 2009 I started the magazine's fan club page on Facebook to create support for this kind of journal. I have, what I've some times referred to as "the opposite of ADD," because I enjoy reading and telling long stories. I prefer Faulkner sentences to tweets. Please join our almost 500 members if you're so inclined!

It also reminded me of the origins of the magazine's title. Taken from the name of a former gay bar in Charleston, Garden and Gun is a "metaphor for the sporting life" and "a love song to the south." The magazine refused to take "gun" out of the title, losing monetary support in the process.

I've never had any fascination with guns, and I may or may not have been hunting at some time in my life. If I did, the memory serves little importance on my being. I do remember trying to shoot cans off of an old, rusting tractor in my grandfather's pecan orchard. I think I bruised my shoulder and lost interest. However, the writers create such captivating stories, that I forget I'm reading about the gun or the fishing rod, in lieu of the protagonists' narrative.

This brings me to the video my father shared with me about the Girandoni air rifle used by Lewis and Clark during their epic expedition of the west. I'm a sucker for all things L&C. One ride through the Columbia River Gorge and reading of Undaunted Courage and I have a new obsession.

All along the Washington and Oregon sides of the Columbia River stand sign posts marking Lewis and Clark's journey in 1803-1806. The present day landscape never ceases to amaze me, and imagining what it looked like unadulterated and unsculpted by men fascinates me.

I've stood at Celilo Falls, the start of a 12-mile stretch of the Columbia River where it drops some 80 feet in a series of cascades, whirlpools and dangerous eddies. Of course it's covered now by the blanket of water created by the dams. The navigation of this gorge and transversing the Continental Divide through the Bitteroot Mountains hold the most allure for me. How did Lewis and Clark do it? St. Louis to the Pacific and back? There were only 36-38 people with them; they could have been easily overwhelmed.

Watch this video about Lewis' gun. Even if you abhor guns. Incidentally, the gun he's holding in the video is on loan to the National Firearms Museum in Fairfax, VA, from, you guessed it, OREGON.




Ah, Lewis and Clark. You're always bridging the divide. I'd like to see an article about this gun in Garden and Gun. Thanks for sharing Mom and Dad!

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Road Trip: Ode to Summer Part II

Before I moved out west, summer used to mean international travel. Now that I am in Oregon, it means ROAD TRIP! That's not to say that I didn't dabble in some southeast road trips back in Georgia, North Carolina, and South Carolina; it's just that it might be comparing apples and oranges. Northwest is epic, grand, saga, awesome; Southeast is an intriguing short story, quaint, rock-n-roll rift, mysterious.

I recently read the article "Southern Roads: The Art of the Road Trip" from Garden and Gun magazine just before embarking on a trip from Portland, Oregon, to Montpelier, Idaho—some 800 miles of dynamic landscapes. While I knew the discrepancies in the two trips would be vast, Daniel Wallace did provide me with some pearls of wisdom that could be applied.
Southeast: You could discover a road like this.
1. Road trips are not vacations.
2. Get Lost
3. Get off the highway
4. Play Games
5. Go along for the ride 
Southeast: Highway traffic
Southeast: Cityscapes 
This is some excellent advice, especially for southern roads, because there really is nothing pretty about I-85, I-75, or I-95. Coming from someone who has driven up and down the eastern seaboard, I know. You do get to see some city profiles, but you're also just as likely to get stuck in snarling traffic with nothing to look at except rude bumper stickers or get woozy from idling fumes. 
Southeast: Pump your gas here.
While the west's byways are preferable, highways like I-84 through the Columbia River Gorge and eastern Oregon are amazing. I-90 through South Dakota, Montana, and Idaho are also awe inspiring. I like to turn on U2's Joshua Tree, The Garden State Soundtrack, or Ryan Bingham's Mescalito in these spaces.

Columbia River Gorge—Wet Side
Columbia River Gorge—Dry Side
1. Our road trip to Montpelier was not a vacation. I offered to accompany my friend on a road trip so that she could visit a dying friend, and she wouldn't have to drive. Contrary to what you might think, it was a life-affirming journey, and the thrum of the motor, the vast and infinite landscape lent to a meditative mindset. We did stop at less-than stellar Motel 6 in Twin Falls, where upon arrival we learned the pool was closed because a kid was sick in it. It had been 100 degrees out there, but the AC was pumping and we weren't there for the decor.

2. We did get lost trying to find Los Pinos in Mountain Home, Idaho. But I think it was because we were cranky and ready for some eats. I'm going to go ahead and give a shout out to this little restaurant. It's worth getting off the highway a little bit and way better than anything fast food can dish up.  

3. We got off of I-84 three times. At the start of our trip we decided on OR 26 East through Mt. Hood, down toward Madras, Prineville, and Prairie City toward Ontario, OR. On this route we were able to see the Painted Hills, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Ochoco and Strawberry Mountains. 

Pickle's Place, Arco, Idaho


Serendipity Atomic Days
On the return trip we took ID 26 west through Atomic City, Arco, and Craters of the Moon National Monument. Atomic City was going to be the pinnacle city of the nuclear age, with a reactor destined to be located here. Alas, that didn't happen, and now it only has a population of about 25. Down the road is the Idaho National Laboratory, kind of creepy. We decided on Arco for lunch, and it was crazy busy in Pickle's Place. When we asked, the waitress resignedly informed us that it was Atomic Days Weekend. Boy weren't we lucky! Fifty-seven years ago, Arco was the first city EVER to be lit by nuclear energy. And we made it for the celebration weekend. How perfect is that? 

Columbia River Gorge from WA 14 
Sunset on I-84
The final off-highway action was WA 14, which is on the north side of the Columbia River Gorge. The views are so spectacular that I almost always am unable to take any photos. It's just too much, really. We also let the gas dip below a quarter tank, and we had to coast into the Dalles on fumes. We had .46 gallons left. That's the risk you take when you're on scenic byways. 

4. Play games we did. We started off the trip taking the temperature, time, and location of our vehicle. It ranged between 7:00 AM and 11:00 PM, 57 and 106 degrees. We ended up adding elevation as well. If I get really dorky, I'll put some statistics together for you. We also played the license plate game, finding 26 states. That's more than half! Finally, and I owe this one to Mr. Wallace, we played his simple Roadkill Game. Oh man, this cracked me up:
Count the dead possums, armadillos, deer, raccoons, birds, snakes, and frogs, whether they're smashed flat on the faded white lane-dividing line or unceremoniously shoved to the shoulder. The first to a hundred wins.
We only made it 27, but it's not Mississippi.

5. "The road she ends up taking is as much a surprise to her as it is to us." We took some great chances on our route; it was hilarious, tragic, contemplative and harrowing. What a ride. This post is dedicated to Michael Felcher and his marvelous life and stories.
The road to Montpelier, Idaho



Sunday, June 3, 2012

I have abandoned SE in the PNW for too long! It's time to rejuvenate the connections between The South and The Northwest. I have too much to say for one blog post, so I'll start with Garden and Gun magazine. I had created the unofficial Facebook fan page for the magazine several years ago when it had to skip an issue because of the tanking economy. Since then, they have gotten digitized, have a fan page, include FB comments in the letters section, etc. However, my little fan page is still quite popular, with people asking to be added daily.

In their February/March 2012 edition, G&G published an article on "Best Southern Bars" and included a shout out to five bars around the country that "do Dixie right." Portland got mentioned with The Woodsman. While I very much enjoyed the atmosphere of this place, I don't think it gives off a distinctly southern vibe. I think they have some aspects that are southern, but I wouldn't even call it a Portland-Southern fusion. I personally think it's Portland doing Portland, and I give it big thumbs up. This lead me to consider spots in town that are definitively southern inspired. Portland definitely has a soft spot for southern tinged cultural influences, from music to food. The following are my top picks.

Screen Door 
If only Screen Door could have been on the other side of Burnside, it could have made it to the southeast. Shockingly, this establishment does not have a website, but their delectable menu is linked above. I hardly ever use it, because I always know I will be getting some version of their fried chicken. For brunch, I must opt for the Gin Fizz and cathead chicken and waffles. At $12, it seems like a steep price, but when you consider you can eat for the next 3 days, it's incredibly economical.

While this is down home food done upscale, it is done right. I used to think fancy dining and southern style were oxymorons, but apparently not.

Tennessee Red's

While many a Volunteer is turning in his grave, Tennessee Red's is located on 11th and Sherman. Since Grant and Lincoln streets are adjacent, I appreciate the intersection of irony. T.R. is definitely casual and southern, although they removed the fried okra from their menu, much to my chagrin. It's lost a bit of its luster for me, but I still enjoy getting a beverage and sitting outside on their picnic tables from time to time. It's just up the street from me, and their BBQ smoker can be sniffed from blocks away. You can select from several different sauces, and I enjoy the vinegar Memphis the best. I wish their mustard sauce was less sweet and more vinegar.





Pine State Biscuits
This was one of the first places I went in Portland, mainly because it was recommended by my friend from Charlotte who knew the owners. I was instructed to say hi from Cameron. They now have added a location on Alberta, but I have only ever been to the one on SE Belmont. On weekends, the line is always out the door and there's no where to sit inside. The biscuits are worth any inconvenience.


The Bye and Bye
I learned of this spot from one of the actual owners who happened to be my bartender from my past life in Athens, GA. I ran into him at Blitz Ladd while watching a UGA football game. Those types of coincidences are what this blog is all about. A certain type of Southerner moves to Portland on purpose, and it's always great to run into each other in our next lives.

This is a vegan place with strong drinks, often served in mason jars. Lots of peaches and bourbon happening here. This is a little slice of Athens hipster heaven up here in the ultimate hipster PNW. It's an informal, casual bar, but if you're in the mood for southern service this is not the place. However, if you want to mosey up to the bar and place your order, they're plenty friendly.