Thursday, May 9, 2013

Oxford, Part II: "Faulkner Country"



A Just and Holy Cause?
Traveling to Oxford, Mississippi, with a handful of non-Southerners, I ruminated on the South's relationship with time and place. Upon entering the Square from the Memphis airport, one of my friends said, "Man, stuff happened here." And yet we know stuff happens everywhere. What's the difference?

I grew up stopping at almost every historical road sign on byways of the south. I weaned myself off of it a bit while living in Europe, because you'd never get where you were going because you'd always be reading about what happened before. But even the monuments in the south are monuments themselves. Take this obelisk dedicated to Confederate Soldiers, erected in the early 20th century.

I just read a book review in the Wall Street Journal by Barton Swain about Tracy Thompson's "The Mind of the New South," and several of the passages stuck with me. One particular section discussed Southerner's obsession with the past as well as the fatigue of, as the author of the article writes,
the sanctimonious browbeating and ridicule constantly issuing from the entertainment industry, academia and the national news media? Most Southerners are prepared to live with the incessant reminders that their history and culture were corrupt from the beginning. What they aren't prepared to do is go looking for more such reminders.
Oxford Cemetery
The Garden & Gun article mentioned in an earlier post about Oxford muses that Faulkner would be turning in his grave if he saw the state of his beloved "postage stamp of native soil." Part of the change has to do with tearing down the old and putting up the new. Certainly most American cities could take a page from Portland's city planning, but should we drape all our pasts behind ropes and monuments?

Perhaps it's due to my Southernness, perhaps I can contribute it to my English major nature, but I was the only visitor to make a Faulkner Haj. Other than watching a beloved friend get married, this was the top of my list of things to do in Oxford. Using a little pamphlet included in the wedding baskets, I went on a run through the square, past Faulkner's grandparents' house (the Falkners, the author added the "U" after returning from a stint in the Canadian military. Make of that what you will) and on down to Rowan Oak, the home of William Faulkner for over thirty years.


British and American Oxford notes
In his 1936 book Absalom! Absalom! Faulkner wrote, "Maybe nothing ever happens once and is finished. Maybe happen is never once but like ripples  maybe on water after the pebble sings, the ripples moving on, spreading, the pool attached by a narrow umbilical water-cord to the next pool..."

This quote has stuck with me ever since I took an American Literature class with professor Jim Hans at Wake Forest University. I definitely think that Faulkner's writing would have remained obscure to me without his guidance through some of the more difficult passages. Granted, those are few of the shortest sentences Faulkner ever wrote, but still. Even in 2013, we're weighed down by history. It's almost paralyzing if we let it.

What I never needed help appreciating, was Faulkner's ability to describe what it felt like to be in the South. While I was in Oxford, I was reading Light in August, and I began to underline passages that struck me. Here are a few:

Beyond the open window the sound of insects has not ceased, not faltered.
...feeling the intermittent sun, the heat, smelling the savage and fecund odor of the earth, the woods, the loud silence.
He remembers it now, sitting in the dark window in the quiet study, waiting for twilight to cease, for night and the galloping hooves. The copper light has completely gone now; the world hangs in a green suspension in color and texture like light through colored glass.
Rowan Oak

  As if I'm accustomed to hearing galloping hooves.

Cedar lined driveway
So, I went solo to Rowan Oak, the actual physical place where Faulkner wrote those words. I walked through his gardens, tip toed around his back patio and peered through his kitchen window. I failed to bring $5, so I was not able to enter those hallowed halls. I was pained with nostalgia, watching students and professors read from books around the house. I wanted to eavesdrop and crash the course.

Faulkner walked here
Faulkner ate here





So the next day, before the wedding, I took a little trip to Square Books to peruse the Faulkner section. There must be one, right? Now I had heard quite a bit about this bookstore. It's the Powell's books of the south. First I walked into a small book store, and it was only children's books. Then I walked clockwise around the square until I found another square books. Ahh, this must be it. I ambled up and down the rows, but it still felt amiss. While there was a little homage to Garden & Gun magazine, I found no Faulkner section and not even a fiction section. I was confused. I asked for directions.

Clearly I wasn't from around here, because the lovely lady explained I was in the home and style section of the store. If I would just exit the front door and walk three doors down, I would find the main store and an ample Faulkner section. Just like my first trip down Hawthorne Boulevard in Portland, when I went into the wrong Powell's. The lady in Oxford was a little less condescending.

Faulkner Mecca
Boy, oh, boy did I find the gold mine. The holy grail. The pirate's booty of a true American literature devotee. A just and holy cause. After perusing several titles, I opted for a book entitled Faulkner and Love: The Women Who Shaped His Art. I'm barely half way through, but it's a good read for a historian and literary buff. I know that my old Professor would be scoffing at all the historical/revisionist/political bent to Faulkner's work, and I'm scoffing along with him in some parts. The pictures, dates and family trees are the most interesting to me so far.

As it turns out, Faulkner's mother was Maud Butler and she has the same birthday as me: November 27. I couldn't help but feel connected to her. I may just have to name my future daughter Maud in honor of our connection. Of course I haven't read that chapter. I could be both embarrassed to be a Butler as well as a Sagittarian.

As the weekend culminated in the actual wedding that brought the Pacific Northwest to the Southeast, I was illuminated by the father of the bride that the ceremony would take place on Faulkner Ridge. Apparently he participated in hunting parties here. Perhaps nothing ever happens and is finished.

The view from Faulkner Ridge
Now I'm back in Portland, and I've taken up reading several other books, one notably by Eckhart Tolle, the author of The Power of Now. Here in Portland you can't drive too far without reading a bumper sticker that touts his phrase, "All you have is now." Of course Eckhart lives in British Columbia—the Pacific Northwest. Wouldn't it be interesting to get Faulkner and Tolle in a room?


Thursday, May 2, 2013

Oxford, Part I: Put Some South in Your Mouth!

The first weekend in April brought exciting fodder for the Southeast in the Pacific Northwest blog, so much so that I have difficulty in pruning down the events for a single blog post. 

One of my oldest friends, and co-Portland inhabitant married her Alabama-born fiancé in a pastoral setting outside of Oxford, Mississippi. The wedding congregants consisted of largely three groups: Portland family (with some overlapping Georgia folks), an Athens, Alabama family and an Atlanta, Georgia contingency. The mixture was fabulous, and an affirmation, in my mind, that certain elements of The South and The Pacific Northwest dovetail nicely together.

For me, the two main themes were Blues City Cafe's Motto, "Put Some South in Your Mouth!" and William Faulkner's line, "Nothing ever happens and is finished." So this first post will address the culinary delights we put in our mouth

Let me first make plain, that I have never been to Oxford. I associate it mainly with Faulkner's writing and a 2008 article from Garden and Gun magazine. It has been, for some time, a place I wanted to visit. To get to Oxford, the Portland contingency had to fly to Memphis and rent a car for the hour and half drive. Our Portland party consisted of two Georgia affiliated, two Nebraskans, and two Californians. We all shared a penchant for good food and drink and discovering a quality sense of place. 

Our first stop? Beale Street and some lunch. After finding our way from the airport, we were all struck by how wintry it looked. It seems Portland, way up in the Pacific Northwest was much further along the spring trek than the heart of dixie. Who knew? We were also struck by the bleakness of the city. Memphis has seen some hard times.



Ghost River Golden Ale
I was the only person who had been to Memphis, and while we consulted our iPhones and networks, we ended up going to Blues City Cafe (rather than BB King's Restaurant & Blues Club across the street; I had been there in 2002) based on the awesome sign that told us to put some South in our mouth. Done.

Portland Family in Memphis
The six of us shared some delicious ribs, coleslaw and baked beans. Two of us opted for a local brew called the Ghost River Golden Ale.  What do you know, they tout that great water makes great beer. Exactly what we say in PDX. They also say think global, drink local. I love these guys.

We threw back the last drops of golden nectar, gnawed on the remnants of cow bones and hopped in our rental mini-van. Oxford, onward! One thing we were warned about: Mississippi does not sell cold beer, and we should pick up some before crossing the border. Even to me, a native southerner, alcohol regulations are a mystery to me. Why? Why can't an American buy cold beer in MS? I mean, it's unAmerican. In any event, I thought there would be all kinds of crazy carnival signs proclaiming, "Buy Cold Beer Here!" as we approached the border. Like firework shops on the border between Georgia and South Carolina. Alas, I was wrong. We seriously thought we were going to get shot, mugged or worse in our search for cold beer.

Eventually we picked up a 12 pack of Budweiser and got the heck out of there. No Ghost River Ale to be found. Colt 45, yes. Craft brew, no.  Ok, Oxford, onward!

The Garden & Gun article I referred to early, states that, "The Square of Oxford is studded with good bars and restaurants like jewels in a crown, and you can have big fun and great meals without ever leaving it." Too true. We didn't stray far from our VRBO which was just a few blocks away from the crown.

We ate at four locations on the Square: Soulshine Pizza Factory, Proud Larry's, Boure`, and City Grocery. All had their credits and debits.

Soulshine Pizza Factory

Credits include excellent and competent service to a large and unwieldy party. A huge bonus for me was access to Magic Hat #9 on tap. Oh delicious beer that was my favorite at Charlotte's very own Philosopher's Stone Tavern. It's very difficult to find on tap on the west coast. Impossible really. We had wide array of foods, including a variety of nachos, pizzas and salads. Sorry Soulshine, if your salad comes from a bag that includes iceberg lettuce, dehydrated carrots and purple cabbage, I cannot condone you as a food place.

Proud Larry's

We were another large party of 8 or so, so we missed out on the delightful outdoor seating. It was sunny outside and the Portlanders were tucked away in a little corner. I had my doubts about the food, but it ended up being delicious. I had a roast beef po' boy and bites of lobster nachos. Unbelievable. Thumbs up. Service was a bit slow and I'm not sure there was vodka in my Bloody Mary. That's nothing to be proud of, Larry.

Boure`

That's pronounced Boo-Ray for those of you who don't know. It evoked an appropriate nickname for a certain To Kill a Mocking Bird character for me. To be fair, we were catered here with tapas style food and drink. All were to my liking. The porch and atmosphere of this spot were killer.

City Grocery

City Grocery
Now this spot has a reputation. Written up in Garden and Gun, extolled by my brother and on the "to eat list" of every Portlander visiting that weekend: I knew I had to go here. We made lunch reservations and examined the menu so we could eat and run. We had a wedding to get to. Pricy, yes, but aren't all haut cuisine spots? Kudos to the wine list and affordable pricing. I had a Sauvignon Blanc for $5.50. Eat that Portland. The Waldorf Salad, on the other hand, was 8 bucks and was the size of a fruit cup. I had the shrimp and grits, which were delicious as was the cornbread. But I paid for it. Looking around at others' selections, I was not impressed by the cost per portion ratio. I'm not even that big of an eater, but it was kind of ridiculous. So over all, I would recommend this spot, but I might also recommend having heavy appetizers before I go.

Chick-fil-A

So I didn't eat here this trip. I took a run to Faulkner's home, Rowan Oak (to be mentioned later). However, I was a bit envious to miss those delicious waffle fries, polynesian sauce and fried chicken laced with pickle juice. Boo hoo.

Woodson Ridge Farms - Chef Elizabeth Heiskell 

Woodson Ridge Kitchen
The wedding was amazing, beautiful and poignant. The setting, the father's toast, and the dinner created a lasting impression. I felt quite lucky to be immeshed in such a quintessential Mississippi moment. Shrimp, grits, fried green tomatoes and some delicious Brussel sprout salad. The addition of St. Innocent and Oregon Pinot Noir did help. A delightful blending of Pacific Northwest in the Southeast.





Oregon Pinot Noir on a Mississippi Farm